Updated: Aug 30, 2020
In this article , We will discuses about tomatoes most dangerous diseases, and how to control and get rid of all for great Production of tomato crops.
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) can be grown on almost any moderately well-drained soil type. A good supply of organic matter can increase yield and reduce production problems. Tomatoes and related vegetables, such as potatoes, peppers and eggplants, should not be planted on the same land more than once in three years. Ideally, any cover crop or crop preceding tomatoes should be members of the grass family. Corn, an excellent rotation crop with tomatoes, suppl
ies large amounts of organic matter and does not promote the growth of disease organisms that attack tomatoes. Certified seeds and plants are recommended and should be used whenever possible.
Here is some most dangerous decease and its treatments step by step.
( EARLY BLIGHT ) ( LATE BLIGHT ) ( FUNGAL DECEASE ) ( LEAF CURL )
(SEPTORIA LEAF SPOT )
1. Early Blight
Tomato blight is a fungal infection that can reduce the quality and number of tomatoes harvested from each plant. Its spores live in the soil. They can get splashed up on to the leaves while watering if the hose is turned on too far. You'll first notice the lower leaves with brown patches on them. That's when you need to take action so it doesn't affect your whole plant and spread to other plots. Many of our members grow tomatoes. That means it's important to be a good plot neighbour by staying on top of blight so that as few plants are affected as possible.
One way to prevent blight from infecting your tomatoes is to spread a layer of hay around the base of each plant. Salt marsh hay is the best. (Try not to let the hay get wet before you spread it around your plants.) The surface layer of hay prevents soil from getting splashed onto lower leaves. That's it! Simple, yet very effective.
Side note: If you can't get salt marsh hay, try to make sure whatever hay you use has not been treated with chemicals. Sometimes, decorative hay available at craft supply stores has been treated. That would not be good to use on plants you plan to consume, like tomatoes.
Another way to keep fungi from thriving is to water in the morning, rather than in the late afternoon or evening. By watering early, there's time for the plant to dry off before nightfall, when fungi thrives. Try to water the dirt, not the leaves.
If you still notice brown patches on lower leaves, cut the branch off as close to the stem as possible and throw them away at home. Do NOT compost them or till them back in to your plot soil, because you are then spreading the blight spores further.
Hopefully, these tips will help avoid trouble for your tomatoes. Do you have other ideas for how to control blight? Leave a comment.
Signs and symptoms
Leaf infections are large brown blotches with a green gray edge,Leaves have large, dark brown blotches with a green gray edge; not confined by major leaf veins.
Infections progress through leaflets and petioles, resulting in large sections of dry brown foliage.
Stem infections are firm and dark brown with a rounded edge.
Firm, dark brown, circular spots grow to cover large parts of fruits. Spots may become mushy as secondary bacteria invade.
In high humidity, thin powdery white fungal growth appears on infected leaves, fruit and stems.Infected fruit have a dry brown rot,In high humidity, powdery white spores form on infected fruit, leaves and stems
In cool, wet weather, entire fields turn brown and wilted as if hit by frost.
Destroy potato cull piles before the growing season begins by burying them, spreading and incorporating them into fields, or feeding them to animals.
Control volunteer potato plants, as infected plants can grow from infected tubers.
Seed infection is unlikely on commercially prepared tomato seed or on saved seed that has been thoroughly dried.
Inspect tomato transplants for late blight symptoms prior to purchase and/or planting, as tomato transplants shipped from southern regions may be infected.
If infection is found in only a few plants within a field, infected plants should be removed, disced-under, killed with herbicide or flame-killed to avoid spreading through the entire field.
Fungicides are available for management of late blight on tomato. Late blight does not occur every year in Minnesota. Growers should watch for late blight symptoms in their regular scouting, particularly with weather conditions that favor disease.
Fungicide applications should be made prior to infection when environmental conditions favor disease to be the most effective. Phytophthora infestans is a water mold and not a true fungus. Fungicides specific to water molds must be used and applications repeated according to label instructions.Rotate fungicide groups and/or tank mix fungicides to avoid producing fungicide-resistant isolates.
Because late blight disease development is so dependent on weather, It applying fungicide every 7 days may save several fungicide sprays per season while still providing good disease control.
3.Yellow Leaf Curl Decease and Treatment.
Tomato yellow leaf curl virus (TYLCV), a disease that threatens both commercial tomato production fields and home gardens, was identified in March 2007 by Dr. Robert Gilbertson, University of California, Davis (UCD), in greenhouse tomato samples from Brawley, Calif.
TYLCV is transmitted by adult silverleaf whiteflies and can spread rapidly, but TYLCV is not transmitted through seed or by mechanical transmission. The presence of silverleaf whitefly host plants, both cultivated (peppers and tomatoes) or wild hosts (sowthistle, cheeseweed and nightshade weeds) during spring and summer may lead to whitefly migration and spread of TYLCV. During late spring, summer, and early fall, growers need to monitor white fly populations very closely and destroy white fly.
Typical symptoms for this disease in tomato are yellow (chlorotic) leaf edges, upward leaf cupping, leaf mottling, reduced leaf size, and flower drop. TYLCV can have a severe impact on tomato production. Plants infected at an early stage won't bear fruit and their growth will be severely stunted.
TYLCV identification based only on symptomatology is unreliable, because similar symptoms can be caused by other viruses or various growing conditions.
Use only virus-and whitefly-free tomato and pepper transplants. Transplants should be treated with Capture (bifenthrin) or Venom (dinotefuran) for whitefly adults and Oberon for eggs and nymphs. Imidacloprid or thiamethoxam should be used in transplant houses at least seven days before shipping. Transplants should be produced in areas well away from tomato and pepper production fields.
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